Nazaré Forecast For Waves and Weather
Good conditions for big waves are wave heights above 5 meters in the forecast, a wave period of minimum 14 seconds, and a not too strong offshore wind. The best way to not miss the waves is to sign up for the Big Wave Alert!
What Are The Perfect Conditions For Big Waves?
Unfortunately, the big waves do not show up every day in Nazaré. It always depends on the current weather conditions and swells coming in from the Atlantic ocean. Forecasts cannot precisely predict the height of the big waves in Nazaré. That's because the calculation of wave heights is based on data from buoys around the ocean. The Nazaré canyon can amplify this calculated height by up to 3 times. Meaning that a predicted wave height of 3 meters can easily reach 9 meters.
How the waves get that big?
Nazaré is widely known for being home to the most impressive waves in the world. In some cases, you will find Nazaré waves that go up to 30 meters in height. These are way larger than many other waves in the world, making it the best place to check out if you're a surfer or interested in the phenomenal power water has. That being said, how are these waves getting so big? Here are some of the reasons why that happen.
A UNIQUE LOCATION
The high breaking waves are formed mostly thanks to the underwater Nazaré Canyon. The main reason why these waves are so large is that the canyon increases and then it converges the ocean swell. Add to that the local water current, and both of these combined are enlarging the height of every wave. It’s possible to find 30-meter waves from time to time, and obviously surfers are very excited to try them out. It’s the main reason why surfing competitions are so popular in this region, and it’s something that a lot of people enjoy.
It’s important to note that the canyon is separating the initial wave in two. That’s something a lot of people don’t know, although it’s a crucial part of the wave creation process. By doing that, it helps boost the wave speed, they both travel through the canyon and then they reunite. As the ocean current comes from the beach, it helps add up more meters.
Factors that make these large waves
Of course, this will create large waves, but in order to have those 30-meter waves, there are some other special ingredients. The wave period needs to be at least 14 seconds, and the wave size should be over 4 meters as well. The wind and wave direction also matter. You must have weak wind and the wave direction has to be W/NW. It’s important to note that the canyon can amplify the size of that canyon 3 times.
Aside from that, the weather conditions also matter quite a lot. The North Atlantic Storms that take place during the winder are a crucial factor. They are bringing a massive swell to the canyon. That bolsters the effect of most waves. Even if they are small at first, the buildup continues and by the time they reach the canyon, those waves can be extremely large. It’s not safe to go surfing when these large waves appear unless you are a vetted professional. Large waves like these can be very dangerous, so proper knowledge and expertise is needed.
The Nazaré waves are amazing, and they will take your breath away. A lot of people visit Nazaré to see these massive waves. But there are lots of daredevils and professional surfers that come here to ride these waves. There are some amazing surfing competitions taking place here too, which is very exciting. If you love surfing or want to see some amazing waves, Nazaré really is one of the best places to check out, so give it a try soon!